This carefully crafted guide explores the vibrant diversity of Black communities thriving in the heart of the British capital.
If you’ve explored London beyond the usual tourist spots, you know that the city’s diversity is what makes it special. But in a city filled with so many different cultures, where exactly can you find “Black London”?
London-based writer and columnist for The Morning (the flagship daily newsletter for The New York Times), Desiree Ibekwe, takes us on a journey of this rich community in areas like Brixton and Peckham in South London, Hackney in the east, and Notting Hill in the west, where the abundant culture of its African and Caribbean communities can be enjoyed in restaurants, bars and various cultural spots.
Here’s Ibekwe’s handpicked selection of some of those amazing places.
Black London’s Cuisine Scene
On High Road in Tottenham, a neighborhood in north London, you’ll discover Chuku’s, the world’s first Nigerian tapas restaurant. This charming and relaxed spot offers authentic Nigerian dishes anchored by energetic afrobeats music and modern art. Their traditional Nigerian dishes are creatively presented in sharing plates that cost between £5 and £14 (about $6 to $18). For example, chin chin, an irresistibly addictive fried dough snack, is transformed into a cheesecake while suya, which consists of grilled and well-seasoned beef or chicken, is reimagined as flavorful meatballs drenched in sauce.
Chuku’s was established by siblings with roots in Nigeria and Grenada to offer newcomers a taste of Nigerian cuisine while providing a bridge for those in the diaspora to reconnect with their cultural heritage.
We’re Nigerians, we’re loud, we’re verbose,” Ifeyinwa Frederick, one of the owners, told Ilbekwe. “We wanted a buzzy atmosphere that represented that kind of vibrant, boisterous nature.”
This year, the diverse flavors of West African cuisine in London also garnered Michelin star recognition for two establishments located near Oxford Street: Chishuru and Akoko. These restaurants artfully fuse African ingredients with Western cooking methods. At Akoko, guests can savor unexpected pairings such as plantain puffs with beef tartare and Gambian stew served alongside Irish oysters. On the other hand, Chishuru offers a £95 prix fixe dinner where traditional egusi—a seed commonly used in soups and paired with pounded yam—transforms into an innovative ice cream that complements a light meringue sponge.
The emergence of these restaurants highlights a long-term change in the Black community in London. For many years, Caribbeans were the predominant group and, therefore, the main influence on Black culture in the city. However, in the 1980s and 1990s, more migrants from West Africa began to arrive in the UK for work and education, with many settling in areas like Peckham in South London, which is often referred to as Little Lagos due to its strong Nigerian presence. These communities have become more established over time and are now shaping the surrounding culture. Emeka Frederick, co-owner of Chuku’s, views this moment as a sign of growth.
“When we were younger, that community was just starting to establish itself,” he described in an interview with Ilbekwe. “Now, 30 years later, it’s not just established – it’s thriving, and we’re feeling confident.”
The Music Scene of Black London
The Black community in London loves to celebrate, and one of the city’s largest festivities is the Notting Hill Carnival. It’s organized by the Caribbean community, held every August in West London, and attracts hundreds of thousands of attendees.
For a lively atmosphere all year round, you can also check out Jumbi, a cool music bar in Peckham that opened in 2022. The bar pays tribute to the owners’ Caribbean heritage and is named after a character from West Indian folklore. The cultural influence is evident in both the music and the food; you can sit down at a table, savor oxtail in Trinidadian flatbread (£14), enjoy Caribbean-inspired cocktails, and then hit the dance floor.
Also in the area, the Prince of Peckham pub is a great place for late-night dancing to hip-hop and R&B, accompanied by more delicious Caribbean cuisine.
Troy Bar is a modest venue located on a quiet street off Old Street in East London, a bustling boulevard of bars and restaurants. Its atmosphere is cozy, reminiscent of one’s home, and the food reflects that comfort with affordable Caribbean dishes like curry goat, jerk chicken, and grilled fish, all priced at £7 per plate. The bar also features an open mic night on Tuesdays, reggae music on Thursdays, and jazz performances on Fridays.
In recent years, the nightlife scene for young Black individuals has been significantly shaped by the emergence of two-party companies, Recess and DLT (Days Like This), both operated by groups of Black British men. Recess has hosted club nights at various venues throughout the city, including the renowned Fabric, and this year, the company organized a massive party in Tottenham that attracted 15,000 attendees. You can check their websites for information on upcoming events.
Exploring Black London’s Visual Arts
One location to view works by Black artists in London is Autograph, a gallery located in the trendy Shoreditch area in the eastern part of the city. Currently, the second floor features previously unseen pieces by Nigerian-born photographer Rotimi Fani-Kayode. These portraits are part of the exhibition titled, The Studio – Staging Desire, which, like much of his work, delves into themes of Black queer self-expression. The subjects in these portraits are nude, expressive, and dynamic. The exhibition will be on display until March.
Autograph, which was originally known as the Association of Black Photographers, was established in 1988 in Brixton, a neighborhood in South London. Fani-Kayode, who lived and worked in Brixton for six years until his passing in 1989, was one of the founders. Today, the gallery is located at Rivington Place, a striking gray and black building designed by Ghanaian-British architect David Adjaye. The gallery promotes the investigation of identity and social justice through both still and moving images. This is evident in exhibitions such as Fani-Kayode’s work and Abi Morocco Photos: Spirit of Lagos, which showcases the vibrant atmosphere of Lagos in the 1970s. This exhibition will be on display until March.
At Tate Britain, the works of Fani-Kayode, along with fellow Black photographers Joy Gregory and Ajamu X, are featured in the exhibition The 80s: Photographing Britain, which vividly portrays the political and social transformations of that era (tickets priced at £20). The museum also provides guided tours that delve into the contributions of individuals of African and Caribbean descent to British art. As you stroll from the nearby tube station toward the museum, situated by the Thames, keep an eye out for Iniva, or the Institute of International Visual Arts, located on the Chelsea College of Arts campus. This intimate library, named after the Jamaican-born British cultural theorist Stuart Hall (a founding figure of the organization and serves as its chair for many years), is filled with an array of books and equipped with inviting tables. Here, the organization showcases exhibits among its collections, with the latest being Global Resiliencies, which investigates zines as a means of political protest.
Discover Brixton
Nestled in the heart of Brixton, Windrush Square is a fun, lively public space steeped in historical significance. Its name pays homage to the ship that brought Caribbean migrants to British shores in 1948, an event that has come to represent the wave of postwar migration.
As Ilbekwe explains, it’s only fitting that this square houses the Black Cultural Archives, a treasure trove of photographs, letters, and journals that document the rich history of Black communities throughout Britain.
“The organization also supported members of the Windrush generation (West Indian migrants who arrived in Britain between 1948 and 1973) who were caught in a government crackdown,” she writes. “Some were deported or declared illegal immigrants.”
The archive boasts a public area featuring a timeline that chronicles Black history in Britain, highlighting significant events that predate the Windrush era, including the presence of Africans at the court of James IV of Scotland. The current showcase explores the contributions of Race Today, a publication that documented Black British experiences and activism during the 1970s and 1980s. Entry is priced at £3.
A mere ten-minute stroll from the archive leads you to Brixton Village Market, a vivid maze filled with eateries, fresh produce shops, clothing boutiques, jewelry stores, and art galleries. Here, you can admire a mural celebrating influential Black Britons such as the poet Benjamin Zephaniah, enjoy outdoor dining at the Caribbean eatery Fish, Wings & Tings, or visit the Ethiopian and Eritrean restaurant Light of Africa.
Alternatively, explore Round Table Books, a lively independent bookstore managed by three women of color, who are always eager to provide personalized book recommendations.
Bon voyage!
