For any of us melanated folk who have ever tried to improve the appearance of our skin, there are certain childhood skincare orders we will probably never forget: we can put cocoa butter and Vaseline on just about anything, sunscreen isn’t necessary, and of course, there’s the cardinal rule about how our “Black don’t crack.”
Passed down from our trusted loved ones, these cultural beliefs and rituals were well-meaning. Their only intent was to keep our complexions clear, luminous and protected. While many routines were mostly safe and practical, little did we know at the time some were actually quite harmful when taken as true. For instance, the belief that our melanin completely protects us from the sun (clinical data shows that Black skin can warm, burn and peel when exposed to UV rays, causing advanced photoaging and hyperpigmentation) or psoriasis only consists of benign patches of dry skin (it is actually associated with other systemic diseases), can lead to an increased risk of delayed diagnoses, severe illness, grave psychological impact, even the loss of life.
Experts say that racial disparities in medicine are to blame for most of our skincare myths. They were inherited from clinicians with limited scientific knowledge about what Black skin really needs. Sadly, there wasn’t enough objective data to go up against what many Black people were told and believed, so these unintentional lies kept going.
According to the U.S. Census Bureau, about half of all American patients will have skin of color by the year 2050. Despite the various ways this demographic shift has influenced American society, researchers note its implications in dermatology remain widely ignored as dermatologists and the primary care physicians who refer to them see more skin-related issues and diseases specific to patients with darker skin. As a result, due to the chronic lack of education and training on dark skin in the field, many patients of color will continue to face inadequate care.
Dermatology has a long way to go before it can competently answer the calls for comprehensive care that caters to everyone, but thankfully, there are Black dermatologists who are making tremendous strides in amplifying wellness and medical management for all patients.
In part three of The Hub’s Melanin Matters series, we continue to shine a vital spotlight on Black dermatologists in major cities across America who are making a difference in the care for patients of color. Not only do they understand our skincare journeys and concerns because, simply, they’ve been there, but they are also dedicated to reshaping the narrative around Black skin.
Washington DC: Ginette Okoye, MD, FAAD
CITY: Washington, D.C.
SPECIALTY: Dermatologic diseases disproportionately affecting melated skin
WEBSITE: huhealthcare.com
WHY SHE CHOSE DERMATOLOGY: While still in medical school, Dr. Okoye consulted with a dermatologist for a scalp condition and he prescribed a medicated shampoo with instructions to use it daily. The dermatologist’s lack of knowledge in textured hair care helped Okoye to realize that as a Black woman, she could bring real value to the field.
New York: Ryan Turner, MD
CITY: New York, NY
SPECIALTY: Medical and cosmetic dermatology
WEBSITE: turnerdermatology.com
WHY HE CHOSE DERMATOLOGY: As an assistant professor at the Albert Einstein College of Medicine, for Dr. Turner, education is paramount. He is a strong advocate for cultural competency and for more training and educational materials on darker skin.
New York: Michelle Henry, MD, FAAD
CITY: New York City, NY
SPECIALTY: Cosmetic and surgical dermatology, hair loss and skin cancer prevention
WEBSITE: skinaestheticssurgery.com
WHY SHE CHOSE DERMATOLOGY: “Before getting invested in dermatology, I was initially interested in Mohs surgery, a type of cancer surgery,” Dr. Henry shares in an interview with Allure. “My first mentor in medical school was a Mohs surgeon. I loved the fact that I could treat the patient, cure the cancer, and do the reconstructive surgery all on the same day.”
Pennsylvania: Susan C. Taylor, MD, FAAD
CITY: Philadelphia, PA
SPECIALTY: Dermatology, cosmetic dermatology
WEBSITE: pennmedicine.org
WHY SHE CHOSE DERMATOLOGY: Dr. Taylor was drawn to the visual aspects of dermatology and to the diverse care that darker skin requires. She is committed to treating a wide range of skin challenges and diseases along with various surgical and cosmetic procedures for all age groups.
Maryland: Valerie Callender, MD, FAAD
CITY: Glenn Dale, MD
SPECIALTY: Hair loss and pigmentation disorders
WEBSITE: callenderskin.com
WHY SHE CHOSE DERMATOLOGY: As part of a medical school research project, Dr. Valerie Callender interviewed patients with vitiligo who shared stories of isolation and humiliation. She knew at that very moment she wanted to be a dermatologist.
Alabama: Corey L. Hartman, MD, FAAD
CITY: Birmingham, AL
SPECIALTY: Injectable treatments, acne, laser procedures, pigmentation
WEBSITE: skinwellness.com
WHY HE CHOSE DERMATOLOGY: Dr. Hartman’s passion for dermatology is inspired by his childhood love of science and the arts. Dermatology allows him to use scientific innovation and creativity to achieve the most aesthetically pleasing and accurate results for his patients.
Tennessee: Aleta Simmons, MD, FAAD
CITY: Nashville, TN
SPECIALTY: Dermatologic health disparities, skin of color, mentorship
WEBSITE: gettheskine.com
WHY SHE CHOSE DERMATOLOGY: Dr. Simmons knew she wanted to be a dermatologist in high school after her visits to a dermatologist left her feeling underserved. This same sentiment, one she often hears from her own patients, fuels her work to support populations most harmed by health disparities.
Florida: Heather Woolery-Lloyd, MD, FAAD
CITY: Miami, FL
SPECIALTY: Dermatologic conditions most common in melanin-rich skin
WEBSITE: drwoolerylloyd.com
WHY SHE CHOSE DERMATOLOGY: As a medical student, Dr. Woolery-Lloyd’s interest in dermatology stemmed from its visual and procedural aspects. She is a fierce advocate for the inclusion of education and research for dark skin in the field, serving as an investigator in dozens of FDA clinical trials that highlight the importance of including patients of color.
Texas: DiAnne Davis, MD, FAAD
CITY: Dallas, TX
SPECIALTY: Medical and cosmetic dermatology
WEBSITE: skinofcolorsociety.org
WHY SHE CHOSE DERMATOLOGY: As a young adult, Dr. Davis suffered from acne, but had a hard time finding a dermatologist that looked like her. Once she found one that was trained in treating her acne and how it affected her self-esteem, she was inspired to make the same difference for others.
