Pharrell Williams proved he understood the assignment on Tuesday, June 20, when he debuted his first collection as creative director for Louis Vuitton menswear. In fact he more than understood said assignment-he masterfully transformed it and produced one of Louis Vuitton’s greatest hits-all while humbly sticking to his roots.
In an Apple Music interview that aired on Saturday, Ebro Darden spoke with Busta Rhymes about William’s debut.
“There were moments leading up to [it] that were tear-jerking moments for me,” Busta said. “I knew Pharrell when he was trying to sell a beat at Elektra Records and we [weren’t] really paying him no mind because he just didn’t look like the guy you needed to pay attention to.”
He went on about P’s humble beginnings and how that transformed him into this great man and friend he is to him today.
“He’s not just a guy and a man and a gentleman. He’s a God to me.”
He then continued to talk about the way Pharrell approaches a job with humility and respect, and how that makes him an inspiration.
In other occasions following his appointment to Menswear Creative Director, Williams, 50, was commonly found rejecting the ‘Louis Vuitton Don’ nickname and attributing it back to Kanye West. Instead he calls himself a “student.”
“I’m electrified with gratitude,” he said in a video with Swizz Beats reported by Complex. “My appointment in this position is a tribute to our brother Virgil. God is the greatest.”
I do find many admirable qualities about Pharrell and his creative exploration so far with Louis Vuitton. The show itself told a story that was comforting, inspiring and fun.
In Vogue’s “Pharrell Williams’ Louis Vuitton Men’s Debut Collection” video, Williams speaks on how it takes all different types of people to build this collection. He also said that even though the label is menswear, he designs for humans and so the apparel is open to everyone. This is showcased through his campaign marketing and the styles he used.
First off, the center of his campaign marketing is Rihanna modeling the infamous “Speedy” bag, and the fact that a pregnant woman is on billboards modeling for a menswear campaign showcases this sense of inclusivity. Also Williams’ take on the Speedy bag is an ode to Canal Street in New York City. Built with a softer leather, the bags collapse in on themselves and they’re also featured in bright, eye-catching colors.
The collection itself highlights a lot of streetwear and tributes to Pharrell’s older works, and this also emphasizes the inclusivity in his collection due to the wearability of the apparel.
But what caught my eye the most was the story.
The official video of the show starts with a wide shot following a young Black man dressed in Louis Vuitton apparel. In the background is the Pont Neuf bridge in France-which is the setting for the show-and soft piano music accompanies him. He approaches and hugs an older Black man sitting at a bench and then sits to confide in him. He asks him about how to admit to yourself and those around you the extent of how much you want to reach a certain goal. The older man responds by saying, “Actions speak louder than words.”
The show itself then starts on the bridge with guests such as A$AP Rocky, Rihanna, Zendaya, Beyonce and Jay-Z in the front row. There’s a warm glow on the bridge resembling sunlight and the floor has the Louis Vuitton “Damier” checkered design. At the entrance of the runway was a full orchestra and gospel choir named Voices of Fire. The show featured new songs produced by Williams including “JOY (Unspeakable)” which was performed by the choir. Pusha T and No Malice walked in the show-reunited as the Clipse-to their new track wearing varsity jackets. The show also featured a lot of what Williams coined as “damouflage” which is the Damier chessboard pattern in a pixelated look with camouflage hues. The design is a foundation for a good portion of the collection.
Pharrell Williams is the first person to take over as Menswear Creative Designer for Louis Vuitton since the late Virgil Abloh. With the sudden and saddening loss of this generation’s greatest fashion innovator still being a sting in the hearts of our community, the appointment of Pharrell this year was a good move I believe because of who Pharrell is as a creative and a professional.
At the end of the show, Williams walks down while Voices of Fire sings “JOY (Unspeakable).” He looks at his family and hugs them, he then turns to his team and gives them praise. There’s something that’s beautiful at this moment. You look back at the story to the young Black boy that has this strong desire to reach this goal, you then see all these creations that have roots in Black culture and Pharrell’s own life story, his use of music was tactful, his audience was tactful-every aspect of the show had this illuminating purpose of putting Black design, influence and success at the forefront.
The New York Times reported a group interview with Williams where some reporter asked him a nonsensical question about why “Black American culture has taken over the world.”
“Umm, I don’t know… I think we just have a different kind of sauce and people like it when they try it, and these corporations are waking up slowly but surely,” Pharrell said. “They’re understanding that we have flavor and that we have something really interesting to offer in a world that is a beautiful world, but historically and factually it’s been whitewashed in a way”
“We just wish that our culture and our people didn’t have to suffer so hard in order to get us here. But again, it’s not lost on me that a lot of people died. A lot of people lost their lives and suffered through their experiences to get us to these positions.”