The Lagos-based stylist brings us through the event’s 13th installment of some of the most dazzling collections from across the continent.
For Momo Hassan-Odukale, Lagos Fashion Week is more than just a bustling workweek; it’s a time to celebrate the ingenuity and accomplishments of both established designers and a new wave of creative talent from all over Africa. The event, which ran from October 25th through the 29th — it featured close to 50 runways and exhibitions — is well on its way to global industry status. Her commitment to making sure this recognition not only amplifies the visibility and appreciation of African culture and traditions worldwide but also maintains a strong sense of pride within its countries’ own communities.
The creative director, consultant and founder of her eponymous creative agency is deeply ingrained in the Nigerian fashion scene. A graduate from Central Saint Martins (the Lagos native spent just about a decade in the UK), Hassan-Odukale returned to her hometown where she started the Momo agency and GIDA Journal, a print-based publication featuring works by East African visual artists and storytellers. Through her work, she remains dedicated to shining a vital spotlight on African creatives and what better show of their innovation and expertise than the much-anticipated Lagos Fashion Week?
Despite the country’s skyrocketing inflation and cost of living brought on by the pandemic (it hit designers hard) — the Nigerian naira even fell 26% against the dollar to an all-time low earlier this month — this year’s line-up of shows was a megahit that recemented its reputation as the continent’s leading industry showcase. The production brimmed with excitingly new and fresh ideas, hard evidence that designers were enthusiastic to invest in taking risks again. Whether it was experimenting with novel twists on classic design aesthetics or tapping into fabrics that surpassed typical design realms, the presentations were mesmerizing to watch.
“This has been the best Lagos Fashion Week that I’ve been to,” says Eniafe Momodu to Vogue Business. Momodu is a British-Nigerian fashion writer and sought-after creative consultant. “While the main runways are always amazing, it’s nice seeing more established designers breaking away and doing their own show because it gives them the opportunity to curate something that is a bit more specific to their vision.”
In keeping with the pioneering spirit, here are a few of the many standout moments at Lagos Fashion Week — those that have not only made Hassan-Odukale, Momodu and the rest of us fashion fans proud but they’ve also enlivened the power and influence of Africa’s fashion ecosystem.
“Transformables: The World is Mine Too” by Nkwo Onwuka
A seasoned sustainability master in the African creative industry since launching her brand in 2012, Nkwo Onwuka is devoted to promoting a positive portrayal of Africa and its distinctive interpretations of its rich history through fashion design.
Kente Gentlemen
Having shown in past New York and Paris Fashion Weeks, Aristide Loua, the Ivorian founder of contemporary ready-wear-brand Kente Gentleman, made his Lagos Fashion Week debut with nothing short of a huge splash. With a collection that seamlessly blends contemporary and traditional design, his garments center around the quintessential Ghanaian textile Kente cloth.
“It Comes in Waves” by Orange Culture
After a two-year hiatus, Orange Culture returned to the Lagos Fashion Week schedule stronger than ever. The event’s founder, Omoyeme Akerele, played a large role in assisting the label transition from a Lagos-based brand into a global entity. Fluid embellishments like macrame-made pieces, corseted suits, pocketed flowers and sequined pieces beautifully dominated the collection.
Ugo Monye
Often described as the Savile Row of Nigeria, men’s tailoring giant Ugo Monye showcased the broad spectrum of exquisite tailoring as well as the embodiment of Africa’s culture, art and history for which his namesake label is best known.
Lilabare
Ria Ana Sejpal, founder of sustainable Kenyan brand Lilabare made her debut at Lagos Fashion Week on October 28th, highlighting artfully beaded tops and unique detailing made by the Maasai community in Kenya. The collection’s sustainable approach to design is built into all phases of its production and is practically realized through the use of regenerative textiles, natural dyes and locally crafted garments that are upcycled yet durable.
“Anti-Muse” by Abigail Ajobi
A collection reflective of old Y2k and modern street style, featuring knitted crop tops, net shirts and denim-zipped gowns, Abigail Ajobi, a luxury, green development streetwear brand, is dedicated to the advancement of social and cultural awareness for Africa and championing local community empowerment since its launch in 2020.
Pillz n Poizn
Nigerian fashion brand Pillz n Poizn has emerged as a top choice for the modern-day lady who has great expectations for special occasion attire. In unapologetically bold designs, complete with mismatched prints and embellished finishes, the line is tailor-made for maximalists who love to play dress-up.
Emmy Kasbit
Lagos’ very own design house, the indelible Emmy Kasbit, closed out Lagos Fashion Week, drawing in a standing-room-only crowd who pushed its venue to maximum capacity. Founded by the Uber-talented Emmanuel Okoro, his latest collection is inspired by the Ukara cloth, a textile that belongs to a group of men in Igboland in Southeastern Nigeria — it symbolizes wealth, power and prestige of the Ekpe secret society, a sacred all-male association — the season’s collection featured approximately 30 extraordinary looks, marking the first time in its 14-year history, the incorporation of signature prints.
