The history of braiding our hair is so deeply embedded in our culture that it predates written history. This communal practice not only enhances our social bonds but also serves as a wonderful way to pass down our wisdom and creativity from one generation to the next.
Today, our braids remain just as significant. They are not only a vital part of our artistic and cultural identity, but many of us choose them for their convenience and effectiveness at safeguarding our hair against heat damage and environmental elements.
But now, a troubling new study indicates that our cherished protective styles may not be as ‘protective’ as we thought; in fact, they could carry some serious health risks.
A Consumer Reports investigation published on February 27th has revealed that many well-known synthetic hair brands, commonly used for braids, extensions, wigs and other hairstyles, contain harmful chemicals that are likely to cause cancer, including lead and volatile organic compounds (VOCs).
Popular brands such as Magic Fingers, Sensationnel, and Shake-N-Go were highlighted in the findings.
The research suggested that lead, which can lead to critical health and developmental issues, was found in nine out of ten packs of synthetic braiding hair that were tested. One pack of braiding hair contained more than 600% of the maximum allowable lead level. Consumer Reports referenced California’s strictest safety standard for lead, calling it the “most protective available in the U.S.” due to the lack of federal regulations concerning lead in synthetic braiding hair.
Synthetic hair has been a common staple used in braids, locs, and twists hairstyles; and as we know, they can last for weeks at a time, if not longer. But, this also means that the contact with chemicals may last for longer periods of time as well, according to the study.
Tamarra James-Todd, the Mark and Catherine Winkler Associate Professor of Environmental Reproductive Epidemiology and lab director of the Environmental Reproductive Justice Lab, was featured in the Consumer Reports article. She pointed out that the chemicals found in synthetic braiding hair seem to act as endocrine disruptors which can interfere with the body’s hormones. She also highlighted that the research is showing that Black women (who are among the largest demographic groups consuming the products) have much higher levels of these chemicals in their blood and urine.
“These [chemicals] don’t operate in isolation; they’re operating together,” she said. For people who wear the synthetic braids, the chemicals are “sitting on your scalp and … can be dermally absorbed. [They] … can be inhaled. Somebody touches their hair and they eat something, it’s hand-to-mouth, so it can enter the body that way as well.”
Researchers examined braiding hair from ten different companies, many of which utilize synthetic hair made from Kanekalon. This material is produced by the Kaneka brand, which is owned by Kaneka Corporation, a Japanese multinational company that was established in 1949. They started as a factory of synthetic resins but has since diversified into pharmaceuticals and other sectors.
Although Kaneka has not provided an immediate response to requests for comments, they informed Consumer Reports that, “Kaneka only produces the Kanekalon fibers used in various hair products, including synthetic hair braids and wigs, and does not create any of the final products.” They added that the companies that are ultimately providing the braiding hair are responsible for dyeing and styling the Kanekalon fibers. Plus, they told Consumer Reports that it requires more information to conduct a thorough analysis of the complaint.
The report also shows that Sensationnel, Magic Fingers and other tested products contain benzene, a substance that can lead to a type of cancer known as acute myeloid leukemia, per the American Cancer Society.
Furthermore, the report found methylene chloride, a substance that the EPA warns may lead to liver and lung cancer with long-term exposure.
Additionally, the FDA bans the presence of methylene chloride in cosmetics.
“There is no safe level of exposure to lead or benzene,” Alexa Friedman, a senior scientist for the Environmental Working Group, a research and advocacy health organization, told NBC News. “When possible, exposure to either chemical should be avoided as they are associated with serious health effects.”
What’s more, lead exposure can lead to various developmental disabilities in children and reproductive problems in adults, as stated by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.
“There are no federal limits on the amount of lead in synthetic braiding products,” Friedman said. “Lead is not permitted to be intentionally added to cosmetic products in the US but may be present as a contamination of certain ingredients.”
Still, some brands maintain that their products are safe for regular consumption.
While Magic Fingers and Sensationnel did not immediately respond to requests for comments, Magic Fingers assured Consumer Reports that their customers, “…can count on us for braids and extensions that meet their highest expectations for fashion and performance.”
Sensationnel has also issued a statement saying, “We fully support the safety of Sensationnel products.”
Magic Fingers and Sensationnel disagreed with how the products were tested, claiming the method didn’t reflect how consumers actually use them. Consumer Reports tested 10 types of artificial braiding hair, taking 20 samples in total. They coded the samples without revealing their identities and sent them to a lab to check for heavy metals.
Shake-n-Go did not reply to requests for a comment.
“While most of these products are below the FDA standard for lead contamination in cosmetics, when possible, exposure to lead should be avoided,” Friedman said because when it comes to synthetic hair, government regulations do not exist.
What Other Options Do We Have?
Sadly, the study shows a troubling trend where harmful products are being targeted at Black women and girls. In 2022, many Black women filed a class-action lawsuit against certain companies that produce chemical hair relaxers, claiming these products caused uterine cancer. Recent large studies have found increased rates of cancer, infertility and other health issues among those who use the products.
Since synthetic braiding hair isn’t regulated by the FDA, James-Todd recommended that individuals should reduce its use. Dr. Jeanine Downie, a renowned certified dermatologist, urged her patients to transition to human hair immediately.
Still, Dr. Downie noted that while the report raises significant concerns, particularly about cancer, it fails to take into account several existing health factors that could increase cancer risks, such as obesity, smoking, vaping or a family history of uterine or breast cancer. As a result, she emphasized the need for more comprehensive research but warned her clients to switch to natural alternatives as a preventative approach.
Ami Zota, an Associate Professor in the Department of Environmental Health Sciences at Columbia University, suggests looking into other safer hair braiding products as well.
Non-toxic, plant-based options from Black-owned brands like Rebundle and Dosso Beauty may require a larger investment, but they could provide the peace of mind that allows us to enjoy our favorite hairstyles without putting ourselves or our loved ones at risk.
