At this time, there are more than 4 million breast cancer survivors in the United States. If you or someone you love are dealing with this overwhelming disease, then it only makes sense that treatment and recovery remain at the center of your attention.
But when it comes to the exasperating side effects of cancer treatments, we may not always consider or anticipate the deep physical and emotional impact they can have on our skin.
Per the American Cancer Society, studies show that skin conditions are the most unexpected side effects of cancer treatment. While the focus is mostly on preparing patients for complications like diarrhea and nausea (they are typically deemed more important), for Black patients, the increased levels of pigment in our skin causes our bodies to react quite differently. Chemotherapy, radiation and hormone therapy can cause darker skin tones to become so exceedingly hyperpigmented, dry, painfully irritated and overly sensitive, some patients actually decide to pause treatment.
While skin-related side effects from cancer treatments are inevitable for people of all races, they are often more physically and emotionally disturbing for us, but with the right information, there’s still a lot we can do for our skin. And thankfully, there are doctors who understand our needs and can help.
Ahead, dermatologist-recommended solutions on how Black patients can care for their skin during and after cancer treatment.
How does breast cancer treatment affect the skin?
Doctors say all patients who undergo cancer treatment typically endure some sort of dermatological issue, but in many cases, Black patients endure more strain. One of the most common misconceptions about Black skin is since it’s dark, it’s tougher and less sensitive. However, the opposite is true.
In fact, the Black skin barrier is thinner in certain spots, highly prone to scarring and keloids, and can easily rip and tear when handled improperly. So, side effects like dryness, painful rashes, scaling, skin ulcers and wafer-thin skin patches are often unbearable.
How can you adjust your skincare routine when undergoing cancer treatment?
Dr. Tiffany Clay, an Atlanta-based, board-certified dermatologist, shares that when Black patients learn they have to undergo chemotherapy or radiation treatments, the first thing they should do is start with a less-is-more approach to skincare because even the simplest ingredients like water can irritate the skin. “I would say, just treat it like baby skin,” she explains to Bustle. A gentle face routine consisting of lukewarm water, foaming cleansers and mild, alcohol-free toners are effective, less-abrasive options that can open pores and deliver optimal cleaning without stripping natural oils. The skin will remain hydrated and nourished with less annoyance.
As for exfoliation, Dr. Clay says to skip it; instead, focus on moisturizers that are formulated for sensitive skin in lightweight and hypoallergenic versions. They are soothing and will alleviate the issues typically catalyzed by chemotherapy and other cancer therapies.
When cleansing the body, consider hypoallergenic and fragrance-free soaps, lotions and body butters. They don’t contain damaging ingredients and will help to restore dry, irritated skin. Dr. Heather Woolery-Lloyd, a board-certified dermatologist specializing in skin of color, points out that when some patients are going through cancer treatment, they may even discover a need for shorter, cooler showers. “If your skin is changing and really ultra sensitive, you just can’t tolerate it,” she says. “Especially when your skin starts to react to heat and steam.”
The dermatologist also recommends making SPF a part of your daily routine for your body as well as for your face because chemodrugs can create photosensitivity and allergies for delicate skin. Although she has found that Black skin is usually less likely to see this side effect, it can occur during treatment for some Black patients. “The melanin [in our skin] gives us some protection — some, not complete — from the sun,” she says. “You want to minimize how many ultraviolet rays are contacting the skin.”
Considering clothing that contains a UPF (Ultraviolet Protection Factor) is also a solid bet, as they easily and quickly add lots of protection. In addition, pampering yourself with silk clothing, bedding and accessories can also help to ease discomfort.
What skincare ingredients are best to avoid and embrace during cancer therapy treatment?
Both doctors strongly advise avoiding products formulated with common allergens such as fragrances, dyes, preservatives, sulfates, parabens and high levels of alcohol. They have a tendency to remove essential skin lipids, the protective barriers that prevent the absorption of impurities and dirt. Otherwise, it can lead to uncomfortable and excessive allergic reactions.
Doctors also recommend keeping away from hormone disruptors such as PEGs and talc, as they are known to contain carcinogenic properties. Studies are even showing how some natural ingredients like papaya, soy, lavender and gluten have a tendency to mimic hormones that stir up skin irritation during cancer treatment as well.
When it comes to the ingredients that benefit the skin during this time, experts say hyaluronic acid tops the list of ingredients to prioritize. It is a non-irritating hydrator that can hold up to 1,000 times its own weight in water, making it tremendously effective at locking moisture into the skin. They also say aloe vera (it is a great anti-inflammatory – it reduces redness and increases collagen production), shea butter, ceramides and adaptogens are great options because they can help your skin adjust to stress.
A groundbreaking ingredient that is gaining traction for accelerating the recovery time from radiation treatment burns and surgical scarring is growth factors. They are proteins that play a key role in regulating many physiological processes like stem cell growth, which promote healing. Droplette, an innovative skin-care micro diffuser — it is currently the only non-invasive delivery system for growth factors — addresses the issue of how topical solutions tend to evaporate too quickly on the skin. According to the company’s research, its patented technology transforms water-based serums into tiny micro-droplets that can penetrate the skin’s barrier 20 times as deep as topical creams. As a result, it speeds up the healing process, particularly for skin that has become inflamed, damaged and burned by cancer treatments.
Droplette is currently seeking FDA approval, but some dermatologists say it is definitely a treatment to watch and discuss with your doctor.
How long will skin care-related side effects from cancer treatment last?
Dermatologists say that certain changes to the skin can last for months or years, while others may be permanent, especially in areas where a patient has received higher doses of radiation. However, changes in skin while on active chemotherapy are typically not long-lasting.
They also note that Black people have more pigment in their skin which makes them inherently predisposed to other issues like hypertrophic scars and keloids – common concerns for patients requiring breast surgery. Over-the-counter silicone sheets work well to minimize the appearance of flat, prominent scars. And for those patients who are prone to keloid or thick, raised scarring, steroid injections can prevent the marks from forming altogether.
The Final Takeaway
While it’s easy for Black women to shift their focus off any skin-related side effects when fighting breast cancer (they are disproportionately affected by more aggressive types are more likely to be diagnosed at younger ages and at more advanced stages of the disease), it’s important for them to remember that their cosmetic concerns are never insignificant. Embracing a gentle skincare regimen while being mindful of the ingredients that are both harmful and helpful will not only offer lasting benefits for the skin but improve their overall health as well.
“I think we have to give [Black] patients the freedom and the assurance that it’s OK to care about what you look like,” Dr. Woolery-Lloyd advocates. “Even though cancer is very serious, there should be no shame in recognizing that how you look is a big part of a woman’s identity. It’s OK to mourn that change, and there’s lots of ways to address it.”
