Social media has a knack for generating controversy, and we currently find ourselves amidst a heated debate which revolves around Instagram hairstylists facing major backlash from dissatisfied customers.
While expressing frustrations about hairstylists is nothing new, the topic appears to have gained serious traction on social media. The conversation is primarily led by Black women who are sharing their personal experiences and opinions regarding whether hairstylists adequately cater to their needs.
@diariesofageorgiapeach #stitch with @japonytails_ CANCEL INSTAGRAM HAIRSTYLIST 😂😂#fypシ #viral #trending ♬ original sound – Jaiatashon AKA Slimm
Take the phrase “Come washed,” for example. It carries a lot of unwelcome weight in the hairdressing world. In the good old days, getting your hair washed was one of the highlights of a hair appointment. There was even a whole job dedicated to being a “shampoo girl.” But now, many hairstylists expect their clients to show up with their hair already washed, dried, and ready to be styled.
Countless Black women have had terrible encounters with hairstylists they discovered on social media. The trend seems to have started around two years ago and has become quite a phenomenon. On TikTok, the hashtag #IGhairstylists has over 4.5 million views and is filled with thousands of videos where Black women are sharing their experiences with unprofessional hair stylists. There’s even an entire Instagram account called Official Raw Reviews, where people air their grievances against these hair professionals and other businesses.
While there are positive posts, many highlight incidents similar to that of 22-year-old Joanna Georges. She went viral on TikTok after sharing her story of suing a braider who disappeared at the time of her appointment and refused to return the $100 deposit she had paid to book the service. Georges had a feeling that the stylist would oversleep at the early start time, and unfortunately, her intuition was right. She woke up ahead of time and walked for more than 20 minutes to meet the stylist she found on Instagram, only to be left waiting outside a Jersey City apartment for over an hour before furiously heading back home. To date, the legal claim is in the process of being resolved out of court.
These days, using Instagram to promote any business has practically become a requirement. But in the Black hairdressing space, there’s been a rise of a new type of stylist whose social media presence is especially notable. These hairstylists have large followings, sometimes even flaunt celebrity clients, and are always ring-light-ready to capture and share their latest creations. But there seems to be a blurry line between credible hairstylists with a sizable Instagram following and the ones who are being criticized online. The general consensus is that the former has earned their patronage by providing high-quality services to their clients, while the latter started by creating trendy hairstyling-related content and then began booking clients. Sadly, it seems that this increased emphasis on building a strong brand on social media has come at the expense of quality customer service and community building, which were historically the backbone of Black hairdressing.
@facebeatbylo Im genuinely so. Irritated. Rn. Im still sitting here btw. I could have stayed home longer. Got some food. Maybe some extra rest. Like this is truly. So. Ridiculous. Remind me to just stick with the legit salons from now on bc wtf. #hairtok #hairtiktok #blackgirltiktok ♬ nintendo wii (mii channel) song – julie on the internet
Some of these Instagram hairstylists have stringent policies, high prices, rude customer service, and even scammer tendencies. Stories like Georges’s have gone viral because she took legal action against the stylist, which is rare, but many similar stories often fly under the radar. For instance, a claim on Official Raw Reviews shared how a Brooklyn hairstylist was a “no show” for her appointment. “I was sitting there for almost 45 minutes and she wasn’t answering the door, my text messages or her DM,” the client said. “I drove 30 minutes from Queens in traffic and you don’t even have the decency to say you can’t make it to my hair appointment?” Eventually, the hair stylist responded to the submission, explaining that she didn’t have access to her phone. She ultimately issued an apology to the client and refunded her money. An additional user on the platform describes an occurrence where they scheduled with a stylist for a starter locs service, only to endure the stylist rescheduling the appointment four times. By the third rescheduling, the client details how she waited outside of the stylist’s salon, “alone in the rain with no signs of anybody…looking stupid.” After about an hour, the technician contacted the client, asked to reschedule again, but then ditched the client for a fourth time.
In all fairness, clients aren’t the only ones feeling the heat. Many hairstylists have also shared how clients seem to have lost respect for the art of hairstyling. They say how it is not uncommon for clients to “show up an hour late and still expect their hair to be done”, says New York City hairstylist Shanna St. Cyr. in an interview with Allure.
But, how did things get this bad?
The Making of an Instagram Hairstylist
In the early days of the pandemic when businesses, including salons, had to shut their doors, Black women, who had long relied on the expertise of generations past to style their hair, suddenly found themselves having to learn how to do it themselves at home. It was during the lockdown, where many of these women discovered they had hidden hairdressing talents and began turning their newfound skills into a side hustle.
Using social media, particularly Instagram, as their main marketing tool, these women started showcasing their hairstyling and braiding abilities. Stylists like St. Cyr and Xia Charles, who now own a salon in Brooklyn and have a large following on Instagram, started doing hair for friends and family at home while slowly building their brands on social media.
The early days of the Instagram hairstylist, from 2018 to 2021, were a great time for both stylists and clients. Talented individuals had a new way to turn their passion into a livelihood, and clients benefited from being able to view a stylist’s work on their profile and easily book appointments through direct messages. It was a simpler time, with fewer stylists to choose from, minimal policies, and lower prices compared to traditional salons. But as more people saw the potential to monetize hairstyling skills online, the pool of Instagram hairstylists became saturated with people who seemed to prioritize their social media presence over building a client-focused business.
@summeralisee #greenscreenvideo ♬ original sound – Summer Alisee
Rigid Rules and Deep Deposits
When it comes to appointment-based services, it is important for both the business and the client to have regulations in place that protect their respective interests. While some stylists have policies that safeguard their time and resources, such as requiring a nonrefundable deposit or enforcing strict guidelines for labor-intensive services like hair extensions, it is crucial for clients to carefully consider these policies before booking an appointment.
It is understandable that stylists want to ensure that clients adhere to their requirements. Some say that policies such as requesting hair to be blown out straight or imposing late fees are designed to maintain a professional environment and ensure that appointments run smoothly. And if a client disagrees, then it may be best for them to seek out a stylist whose policies align more closely with their preferences. However, it should be equally as important to have policies in place that protect the client’s time and money too, but unfortunately, a considerable amount of Instagram stylists do not possess systems that guarantee any recourse should the stylist has to cancel or decline a service based on hair type, especially when they’ve required nonrefundable, astronomical deposits.
Everyone’s a Hairstylist Until the State Board Shows Up
Social media has given hairstylists a platform to market themselves, but being a good stylist requires more than just digital savvy. In the United States, all 50 states require beauty professionals to be licensed. This ensures that they have the proper education and training to prioritize the health and safety of their clients. Students study all areas of cosmetology which include sciences in color theory, trichology and infection control practices along with washing and blow-drying hair.
However, there are changes happening in Georgia, a state with a significantly large Black population and cultural power. The state is looking to reduce licensing requirements for hairstylists and barbers, a move that legislators see as an opportunity to provide more people, particularly those from lower-income backgrounds, a career path in cosmetology. Larry Walker, one of the state senators involved in the bill, believes that the current requirements to do hair in Georgia are excessive compared to other professions or trades. For instance, becoming an emergency medical technician (EMT) requires only 150 hours of field experience, while obtaining a cosmetology license in Georgia demands 1,500 hours and can cost up to $17,000. If the bill passes, only cosmetologists who color or cut hair would need a license, while those who solely focus on styling would not.
Stylists, whether licensed or not, should prioritize their hair-care education, period. It’s crucial to know how to properly care for hair, not just how to style it. Neglecting proper care can have serious consequences, as one anonymous client discovered. After getting a weave from an Instagram hairstylist in New Jersey, she experienced extreme itching and noticed a bald spot when she removed the weave.
In many states, having a cosmetology license is not the only requirement. A business license is also necessary. This ensures that the state can regulate and mandate the appearance and cleanliness of the space where stylists provide their services so that clients feel safe and secure. Plus, a business license also helps stylists stay accountable to the IRS.
So, What Happens Now?
While it may be tempting to search for a stylist on social media platforms like Instagram and TikTok, those who have a large following and can do all the trendy styles, it’s in your best interest to prioritize credentials. A hairdresser with a ton of followers doesn’t necessarily mean they’re a trained, knowledgeable hairdresser or a sound business person. Booking independent stylists through sites like Styleseat adds a layer of accountability as well. These stylists must be licensed to register on the site, and you’ll have access to their full-service menu and verified reviews from other clients. It’s also important to bear in mind that licensed stylists may come with a higher price tag. This is partly due to their years of experience, as well as maintaining their overhead such as the high cost of rent in New York City, for instance.
When it comes to finding a hairstylist, putting in the same level of energy as you would when reading reviews before reserving a table at a restaurant is clutch. One easy way to gather more information is by reaching out to past clients who have been featured on the stylist’s page. They can give you insights and feedback that can help you make a decision. Another option is to ask for recommendations from people you trust. They might have had positive experiences with certain stylists and can point you in the right direction, so don’t hesitate to do some research and reach out to others for their input.
Happy stylist hunting!
