Two months ago, chef Adejoké Bakare made history by becoming the first Black woman in the United Kingdom to be awarded a Michelin star for her restaurant Chishuru.
The modern West African concept in London’s Fitzrovia district earned its star earlier this year in February, garnering widespread attention and acclaim. “It’s wonderful to have been recognized in this way,” says Bakare, the self-taught chef and visionary behind the award-winning restaurant.
Chishuru is changing the game with Chef Bakare’s brilliant fusion of West African flavors complemented by the restaurant’s laid-back atmosphere. “Starred food no longer means linen tablecloths, armies of stiff-backed waiters, and a man in a suit with a golden grapes badge trying to upsell you on the wine,” she jests.
Through her tremendous achievement, Bakare is sparking conversations about the evolving expectations of Michelin-starred restaurants while championing the representation and recognition of Afrocentric cuisines in London’s food scene.
The Gem of Fitzrovia
Growing up in Nigeria, Bakare’s love of food and journey with cooking began early on. “I learned from my grandmother from a young age, and—as the oldest child—was often asked to cook for my siblings.”
She always maintained a deep connection to her culture and the flavors she grew up with. However, it wasn’t until she moved to the U.K. after university, nearly 25 years ago, that she truly began to pursue her passion for cooking professionally.
“I liked to cook for friends at dinner parties, and I ran one or two supper clubs. But it was only when I won a competition to get a three-month restaurant pop-up in Brixton Village that things became more serious,” she recalls.
While running the pop-up in 2020, Chef Bakare and her team received a glowing review from a prominent food critic, solidifying the pop-up as a permanent restaurant. With its growing popularity, Chishuru decided to expand in 2022 but struggled with finding a new place.
“We were flatly turned down by some commercial landlords—they just weren’t interested in having a West African restaurant in their premises,” says Bakare. “Even the site we’re in now was a battle to get.”
Nevertheless, in September 2023, the acclaimed restaurant was finally able to open the doors at its location in the heart of Fitzrovia and receive a Michelin star five months later.
By Nicholas Carr
